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What to look for? How to begin? What's important and not? At every budget, these are your priorities for flattering clothing that makes you feel better and look better. FIT. Above all else. Hand sewn buttonholes and expensive fabric add nothing if the garment is too big or too small or pulling at all the wrong places. Correct fit is extremely difficult to describe; it's more about trial and error, and you, looking in a mirror. (It might be about having an unbiased professional help you, but they're so difficult to find!) Try to take notice of others if you like their appearance. Flag them down on the street! Talk to them. In the fitting room, give no importance to the actual size on the label, because every company does it differently. Always try on a size smaller and a size larger, and ask the salesperson about other fits available. With so many "relaxed fit" pants, consider fitting your hips, not your waist. (If it's an alterable waistband, the tailor can let it out.) As much as I hate rules, everyone should at least know about the fit guidelines, so you can insist on them: length of shirt sleeves, size of cuff, width of shirt yoke, jacket sleeve length, overall jacket length, trouser length. DETAILS. Where, unfortunately, more rules come into play. Can I call them them guidelines instead? This is also where style comes into play, even more than with fit. This is how your shirt collar lies on you, how your tie is tied, if you included a pocket square, if you wore a belt with your vested suit (no, please), if you are wearing elegant, leather-soled shoes with your suit (yes!). This, more than anything, comes with opening your eyes to others, asking questions, and the experience of trial and error. Either you were born with it or you have to work damn hard to get it. QUALITY OF CONSTRUCTION. If you can wear cheap clothes that fit well and you have all the details in order, bravo. You are now in the top 1%. If you want to do even better, seek quality. It naturally comes with high prices, but keep your inner skeptic alive. Ask questions, continue learning about what real quality is in all the different components: shirts, ties, clothing, shoes. And ask yourself how important it is to you? Genuine quality is worth it in every purchase, if you can afford it. LUXURY OF MATERIALS. The difference between expensive and really expensive usually comes from the cost of materials. (Or it comes from extremely meticulous construction, rarer and rarer every day.) It could be unblemished calfskin, an exclusive fabric design, prize-winningly fine wool, or even softer cashmere that give the price that final bump up. It's not worth it to everyone. If you are rich, go for it. Enjoy it. You will never go back to the "cheap" stuff. |
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content throughout this site, unless otherwise noted, is written by and copyright © 2007 j. d. erickson |